The Masteka Log

a Whitsundays chronicle

Day Four

Castle Rock

A slow start, a pod of whales at paddle distance, the South Molle ladder, and a sunset over water.

The turquoise sandbar and islands from the South Molle track

The sandbar from the South Molle track, worth every rung of the ladder.

Nobody set an alarm, and the day forgave us anyway.

Priority frames

The day's best

Four frames that carried the day, promoted straight to the front of the edition.

A tall ship silhouetted at anchor at dusk
The tall ship at dusk.
Pastel sky over the still anchorage
The anchorage in pastels.
Sun flaring over the rocky South Molle summit
Summit sun, South Molle.
A paddler tipping their hat from the ski in golden light
Hat tip from the ski, westbound.
Morning watch

The slow start

After a super amazing night, the morning arrived at reduced speed and nobody argued with it. Brunch was long, late and enormous, and the first serious decision of the day was whether to have another croquette. Most did.

The late brunch, restorative division.
Nobody counted the courses.
Late morning

Paddling with the pod

Then the water woke everyone properly: skis over the side for a paddle, and a pod of whales close enough to make the escort tender feel very small. A close encounter, on their terms, and the kind of thing you don't quite believe even while you're photographing it.

Skis out for the whale run.
The escort keeping respectful distance.
Fifty-five seconds on the water with the pod.
The afternoon

Up South Molle, up the ladder

Ashore on South Molle for the walk up through grasstree country, capped by the adventure everyone had been warned about: a very high ladder, bravely faced by all those with a fear of heights, several of whom narrated the experience the entire way up. The reward was the archipelago in every direction and the sandbar glowing below.

Trail spirits: high.
Grasstree country, South Molle.
The steep boardwalk ladder climbing the rocky summit
The ladder. Higher than it looks, and it looks high.
The whole group on the summit platform, islands behind
Summit crew, fears of heights officially braved.
Masteka 2, waiting patiently below.
The long view home.
Lunch

Risotto and swordfish

Boris again, showing no signs of mercy: an exquisite risotto alongside swordfish, served to a table still buzzing from the ladder. The kitchen is now officially undefeated four days running.

The swordfish arrives.
The risotto, exquisite as advertised.
On the aft deck — interlude

Post-lunch entertainment was provided by the hi-vis club, whose water-safety uniforms have now acquired signatures, ceremony, and what appears to be a full internal committee structure.

The hi-vis club, in session.
The signed shirt. A club artefact now.
From the deck — quote of the day

The Ladder of Death

Getting ashore at South Molle meant a very long, very high ladder straight out of the water onto the wharf — every fear of heights parked at the bottom rung, then collected again on the way back down, which was somehow worse. All hands made it, twice.

“SAS training: up the Ladder of Death to South Molle, fears parked, knuckles white — and scarier again coming down. Then Boris’s swordfish and risotto were waiting on board, and every rung was worth it.”
The company, unanimously, Day Four
Golden hour

West to Castle Rock

Then north-west to Castle Rock with the skis trailing gold, for the rarest of east coast luxuries: a sunset over open water. The photographers took up positions. The tender went out for the best seats.

Paddling into the gold.
The sun road, laid out west.
The ship’s photographer takes the high ground.
The tender, out for front-row seats.
The evening

Drinks at Castle Rock

The tender ran everyone ashore to a beach made entirely of bleached coral, champagne came with, and the evening delivered on the promise: a true over-water sunset, rare coin on this coast. And riding at anchor in the middle of it, a full-rigged tall ship, silhouetted like the whole scene had been art-directed.

The sun setting over open water at Castle Rock, boats at anchor
The over-water sunset, delivered as promised.
Landing on a beach made of coral.
The beach, up close: bleached coral, all of it.
A tall ship at anchor, silhouetted against the dusk sky
The tall ship, on loan from another century.
Champagne ashore, spirits well above sea level.
The sunset, shared.
The whole group posed on the rocks at sunset, everyone facing the camera
The full company, drinks in hand, rocks as furniture — and for one frame, every eye on the lens.
The toast from the stairs.
Beach selfie, golden hour crew.
Priority frames — the couples

Six couples, one light

Then the ship's photographer lined everyone up two at a time against the pastel water, and the coral beach turned portrait studio. Six couples, one golden light, no retakes needed.

Couple portrait on the coral beach at golden hour
The couples of the cruise, no. 1. Nikon glass, golden hour, full frame.
Couple portrait on the coral beach at golden hour
No. 2.
Couple portrait on the coral beach at golden hour
No. 3.
Couple portrait on the coral beach at golden hour
No. 4.
Couple portrait on the coral beach at golden hour
No. 5.
Couple portrait on the coral beach at golden hour
No. 6.
The full company gathered on the rocks at Castle Rock, pastel sky behind
And the full company, in the photographer's cut.
After dark

The blue ship

And when the light finally went, Masteka 2 turned her underwater lights on and floated in a pool of electric blue, which is how the beach party found its way home.

Masteka 2 at night glowing gold above electric blue underwater lights
The way home, unmissable.
After dark, in motion

Two films from the night

Two pieces of footage worth the whole camera roll: Boris in his blacks presenting the final dinner to the table, and the long slow ride back to a ship floating in her own light.

Boris, in the blacks, delivering the final Food Rap.
Approaching the ship: one hundred and eight seconds of coming home.
Green laser light scattered across the cliff above the coral beach at dusk
The crew's green laser turned the cliff into a light show.
The full moon burning through a field of mackerel clouds
The moon, through the mackerel sky.
Last light, last visitor

The trevally commands the seas

And then, as if the day hadn't already emptied its pockets, a giant trevally arrived in the blue glow beneath the stern and took command of the seas. It patrolled. It hunted. Baitfish scattered like thrown silver. The whole boat leaned over the rail and watched royalty at work until well past eleven.

The giant trevally glowing in the blue underwater lights
The GT, in state robes of electric blue.
The trevally turning through the light, wake trailing
The turn. Somewhere below, baitfish reconsidered everything.
Thirty seconds of the hunt, filmed from the best seat on the rail. Open the clip directly →
With thanks

For Mark and Beck

None of this happens by accident. Twelve people don't end up on the same boat, laughing on the same coral beach at sunset, without someone generous enough to imagine it and big-hearted enough to make it real. That's Mark and Beck. Mark gives his time and his life away like there's an endless supply, and this whole amazing adventure, the whales, the summits, the Cup, the lot, exists because the two of them decided to bring us all together. From all twelve aboard: thank you.

A silhouette at last light, watching over the anchorage at Castle Rock
Watching over the water, and over all of us. Thank you, Mark and Beck.

Slow to start, impossible to top: whales by paddle, a ladder braved, the sun down over water, and the two people who made it all happen.