a Whitsundays chronicle
Day Three
A whale at breakfast, Naked Lady Beach, Boris's coral trout, and a race that ended at a bar.
The Whitsundays · Monday 27 July 2026
Good morning. A humpback, one metre off the hull, mid-breakfast.
Some days the itinerary plans you a whale. This one invited itself.
Underway early, coffee on the bow and breakfast served while the anchorage slid astern. The sun came up over the hill like it had been rehearsing, and the day set off north with intent.
Then the water folded open a metre from the boat and a humpback said hello. It stayed. It circled. It rolled under the hull close enough to count barnacles, while twelve people abandoned breakfast and filled the rail with phones. Nobody breathed much.
On to Thomas Island and a beach that needs no marketing department: Naked Lady Beach, Lindeman Islands National Park, sign and all. Skis went in for a paddle, a giant turtle cruised past for inspections, beach pickleball broke out, and the sand collected the morning's sunbathers.
Then the fleet split. Three ocean paddlers pushed off the beach and pointed north for an 11-kilometre open-water leg, chasing the boat up the passage. The rest of us monitored proceedings from the bow cushions with Coronas, which is also demanding in its way.
The paddlers hauled aboard to the smell of it: a whole coral trout, roasted, dressed in salsa verde, and by unanimous acclaim the meal of the trip so far. Boris, the chef, took a bow. The fish, regrettably for the fish, did not. Poached pear to finish, in case anyone doubted the kitchen was showing off.
Underway again towards Happy Bay, someone said the word race, and diplomacy left the vessel. Two double skis over the side: in boat one, the seeded world-champion pairing of Mark Williams on sweep with Sean as the engine. In boat two, the self-described backpacker boat, Nick Edmonds steering with Claude at the back, hanging in there. It was close. It was tough. It remains, officially, undecided.
Before any finish line was crossed, one crew was observed heading inland, their ski riding a resort quad bike, escorted by cheerful local staff, in the direction of the bar, where a cold Corona was administered. The photographs below were submitted to the stewards as evidence. The stewards have retired to consider, possibly also to the bar.
The official finding on the inaugural running of the Cup, as dictated to the log:
At anchor off Happy Bay the boat softened into evening. The bow turned photo studio for the whites session, the spa filled for the day’s official recount, whale tails were tallied, and the sun did the rest.
Just before dinner, with the stern lights turning the water electric blue, Sean answered the day's only unresolved question that wasn't the Cup: rod bent, line tight, fish landed off the swim platform. The engine of the champion boat, it turns out, can fish too.
Dinner arrived under open flame: the crew finishing the main at the table with a blowtorch while the recount of the day ran its full length. The whale, the trout, the Cup, the fish; all entered into the record, some with embellishments the stewards allowed to stand.
The table then turned casino, cards dealt across the saloon while the gold sunglasses came out and the evening's entertainment took over. There is video. It has been entered into evidence.
A whale at breakfast, a trout at lunch, and a Cup nobody won. Yet.